FAQs

Your tire size is on the sidewall and on the sticker inside the driver’s door jamb (and in your owner’s manual). It looks like 225/65R17. Stick with the size your vehicle was built for unless a tire professional recommends a change.

In a size like 225/65R17 102H: 225 is the width in millimeters, 65 is the aspect ratio (sidewall height as a percentage of width), R means radial, 17 is the wheel diameter in inches, 102 is the load index, and H is the speed rating.

It varies widely by size, brand, and type. Many passenger-car tires run roughly $100–$250 each installed, with performance, truck, and premium tires costing more. Call or text us with your size for an exact, out-the-door quote.

The best tire depends on your vehicle, climate, and how you drive — an all-season touring tire suits most local drivers, while trucks, performance cars, and winter commutes have their own ideal options. Tell us your vehicle and priorities and we’ll match you.

There’s no single “best” brand — each maker has strong tires in different categories and price tiers. We carry trusted names from premium (Michelin, Continental, Goodyear, Pirelli, Bridgestone) to strong-value brands, and we’ll recommend the right model for your needs and budget.

Premium tires generally offer better wet grip, lower road noise, and longer tread warranties; budget tires keep costs down for lighter use or older vehicles. The right choice balances your mileage, driving conditions, and budget — we’re happy to compare options with you.

Most tires last about 3–5 years or 40,000–60,000 miles, depending on the tire, your driving, and maintenance. Regardless of tread, most manufacturers recommend replacement by about 10 years from the manufacture date.

It depends on the tire’s treadwear rating and how it’s maintained — many all-season tires carry 50,000–70,000-mile warranties, while performance tires wear faster. Regular rotation, proper inflation, and alignment help you reach those numbers.

Often, yes — premium tires typically deliver better wet and winter traction, a quieter, smoother ride, and longer tread life, which can lower your cost per mile. For low-mileage or older vehicles, a solid mid-range tire may make more sense.

Ideally tires are replaced in pairs or full sets so tread depths and grip stay matched. Replacing a single tire can be fine if your others are nearly new, but on all-wheel-drive vehicles mismatched tread can damage the drivetrain — ask us before replacing just one.

Replace tires when tread reaches 2/32" (use the penny test), or sooner if you see cracking, bulges, exposed cords, repeated air loss, or vibration. Tires older than about 10 years should be replaced regardless of tread.

In most U.S. states the legal minimum tread depth is 2/32" of an inch. A tire is considered worn out and unsafe at that point.

2/32" is the legal minimum, but for safety many experts recommend replacing at 4/32" for wet-weather grip and 6/32" for winter driving, since shallow tread sharply increases stopping distance and hydroplaning risk.

Use the penny test: insert a penny into a tread groove with Lincoln’s head upside down. If you can see the top of his head, your tread is at or below 2/32" and it’s time to replace. A quarter checks for 4/32".

Uneven wear usually points to a fixable issue — center wear from overinflation, edge wear from underinflation, one-sided wear from misalignment, and cupping from worn suspension or imbalance. We can diagnose the cause during an inspection.

Sidewall cracking (dry rot) comes from age, heat, sunlight (UV), ozone, and running low on air over time. Deep or widespread cracks weaken the tire and mean it should be replaced.

No — bulges, deep cuts, exposed cords, or sidewall damage can fail suddenly at speed. If you spot visible damage or persistent air loss, have the tire inspected before driving on it.

Blowouts are most often caused by underinflation and heat buildup, overloading, impact damage from potholes or debris, or worn, aged tires. Keeping tires properly inflated and inspected is the best prevention.

Usually, yes — if the nail is in the tread (not the sidewall or shoulder) and the puncture is 1/4" or smaller, it can be safely repaired with a combination patch-plug from inside the tire. We’ll inspect it and tell you honestly.

A plug alone is only a temporary fix. The industry-recommended repair (per the U.S. Tire Manufacturers Association) is a combination patch-plug installed from inside the tire, which seals both the puncture and the inner liner. That’s how we repair tires.

All-season tires balance dry, wet, and light-winter performance. All-weather tires go further and carry the 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake (3PMSF) rating for severe snow, making them a better year-round choice in snowier climates.

Winter (snow) tires use softer rubber that stays flexible below about 45°F and aggressive, siped tread that bites into snow and ice. They grip far better than all-season tires in true winter conditions and carry the 3PMSF symbol.

If you regularly drive in snow, ice, or sustained cold, dedicated winter tires are the single biggest safety upgrade you can make. For our area’s typically mild winters, a good all-season or all-weather tire is enough for many drivers.

Summer (performance) tires are built for maximum dry and wet grip and sharp handling in warm weather. They aren’t made for cold or snow — their rubber hardens below about 45°F — so they’re best paired with winter tires seasonally.

Look for tires with strong wet-traction ratings, deep tread, and wide grooves that channel water away to resist hydroplaning. Premium touring and all-season tires generally lead in wet braking, and good tread depth matters as much as the model.

Touring and highway (HT) tires are tuned for long tread life, a quiet, comfortable ride, and good fuel economy at speed — ideal for commuters and road trips. For trucks and SUVs, a highway-terrain tire is the smooth, efficient choice.

Low-rolling-resistance tires reduce the energy needed to roll, improving mpg. Many touring and “eco” tires are designed for this, and keeping any tire properly inflated is one of the easiest ways to save fuel.

EVs do best on tires built for their extra weight, instant torque, and quiet cabins — typically low-rolling-resistance designs with reinforced construction and noise-reducing foam. Many brands now make EV-specific tires; we can match one to your vehicle.

Run-flat tires have reinforced sidewalls that let you keep driving a short distance — typically up to about 50 miles at reduced speed — after a loss of air, so you can reach a safe place or a shop without an immediate roadside change.

Road noise is the hum or drone a tire makes as its tread meets the road. Tread pattern, rubber compound, and wear all affect it — touring and premium tires are engineered to be quieter, and uneven wear can make a tire louder over time.

Every 5,000–7,500 miles, or at every oil change, is a good rule of thumb. Regular rotation evens out tread wear and helps your tires last longer.

Balancing adds small weights to the wheel so the tire-and-wheel assembly spins evenly. It prevents vibration, uneven wear, and stress on your suspension, and should be done whenever tires are mounted or a vibration appears.

Alignment adjusts your suspension angles (camber, caster, and toe) so the tires meet the road at the correct angles. Proper alignment keeps the car tracking straight, improves handling, and prevents uneven tire wear.

Check alignment about once a year, whenever you install new tires, and any time you hit a hard pothole or curb or notice the car pulling or wearing unevenly.

A shaking steering wheel is most often an out-of-balance tire or wheel, but it can also come from uneven tire wear, a bent wheel, worn suspension, or brake issues. A balance and inspection will pinpoint it.

Pulling is commonly caused by misalignment, uneven tire wear, or unequal tire pressures — and sometimes a brake or suspension issue. An alignment check is the place to start.

At least once a month and before long trips, plus any time the temperature changes sharply (pressure drops about 1 PSI per 10°F). Don’t forget the spare.

Use the pressure listed on the sticker in your driver’s door jamb (or your owner’s manual) — not the maximum pressure molded on the tire’s sidewall, which is the tire’s limit, not the recommended setting.

Overinflation wears the center of the tread faster, gives a harsher ride, reduces traction, and makes the tire more prone to impact damage from potholes.

Underinflation wears the outer edges, hurts fuel economy and handling, and builds up heat that can lead to tire failure or a blowout. It’s the most common cause of premature wear.

No. A puncture can be safely repaired only if it’s in the tread (crown) area, 1/4" or smaller, and the tire isn’t otherwise damaged. Punctures in the sidewall or shoulder, or on a tire that was run flat, can’t be repaired.

A standard flat repair is usually inexpensive — typically around $20–$40 — since it includes dismounting, inspecting, and patch-plugging the tire. Call us for an exact price.

Most flat repairs take about 30 minutes, since the tire has to come off the wheel for a proper inside inspection and patch-plug.

If the damage meets the safe-repair criteria (a small tread-area puncture) and the tire has good tread left, repair is fine. If it’s in the sidewall, too large, or the tire is worn or aged, replacement is the safe call — we’ll tell you straight.

No. The sidewall flexes constantly and can’t be safely repaired — a sidewall puncture, cut, or bulge means the tire must be replaced.

Yes — and that’s the recommended method. A combination patch-plug fills the puncture and seals the inner liner from inside the tire, which is safer and more durable than a plug or patch alone.

Yes, when the repair follows industry guidelines — a proper inside patch-plug on a qualifying tread-area puncture restores the tire to safe service. Outside-only “string plug” repairs are only temporary.

Mounting, balancing, and installing a set of four tires typically takes about 45 minutes to an hour, depending on your vehicle.

Our installation includes mounting the new tires, computer balancing, new valve stems, a TPMS check, and torquing every wheel to the manufacturer’s specification.

Yes — every new tire should be balanced when it’s mounted so the assembly spins smoothly. Unbalanced tires vibrate, wear unevenly, and stress your suspension.

When you buy only two, the new tires go on the rear axle — even on front-wheel-drive cars. New rear tires improve wet-weather stability and reduce the risk of the back end sliding out (oversteer). This is recommended by tire manufacturers and safety organizations.

It’s strongly recommended. An alignment protects your new tire investment from uneven wear and ensures the car drives straight and handles correctly.

Road force balancing uses a Hunter balancer with a load roller that presses on the tire to simulate the weight of the road, measuring the combined force of the tire and wheel. It catches vibration that standard spin balancing can miss — ideal for a stubborn shimmy.

TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensors are small electronic devices in each wheel that monitor air pressure and trigger the dashboard warning light when a tire is low. They’ve been required on U.S. vehicles since the 2008 model year.

A treadwear (mileage) warranty is the manufacturer’s estimate that a tire will last a certain number of miles (for example, 60,000) under normal use. If it wears out early and you’ve maintained it, you may receive a prorated credit toward a new tire.

Road hazard protection covers damage from everyday hazards like nails, potholes, and debris that the standard warranty doesn’t. Depending on the plan, it pays to repair or replace a tire damaged by a road hazard.

A treadwear warranty comes with the tire at no extra cost and is worth understanding. Optional road-hazard coverage can pay off if you drive on rough roads or in construction-heavy areas — we can walk you through what’s included.

Coverage is commonly denied for improper inflation, missed rotations, misalignment, off-road or racing use, vandalism, and damage from accidents or road hazards (unless you have road-hazard coverage). Keeping service records helps protect your warranty.

Most cover defects in workmanship and materials for a set period, plus a prorated treadwear (mileage) guarantee. Claims are based on the tire’s manufacture date and remaining tread and usually require proof of proper maintenance — we can help you file one.

Alignment pricing depends on your vehicle and whether it needs a two- or four-wheel alignment, but it’s an affordable service that pays for itself in longer tire life. Call or text us for a quick quote.

Right here — Clarendon Tire on Wilson Boulevard in Arlington does fast, professional flat repairs. If the puncture is safely repairable we’ll patch-plug it; if not, we’ll help you find the right replacement.

We’re a little biased, but Clarendon Tire is a locally owned Arlington shop focused entirely on tires and alignments, with honest advice and competitive pricing. Read our reviews and see why neighbors trust us.

A tire rotation usually takes about 20–30 minutes, and we inspect your tires and re-torque every wheel while it’s up.

It depends on the tread left on your current tires. All-wheel-drive vehicles usually need all four matched to protect the drivetrain; front- or rear-wheel-drive cars can often be done in pairs, with the new tires on the rear. We’ll measure and advise.

Inside-edge wear is most often caused by alignment being out of spec (camber or toe), and sometimes by worn suspension parts. An alignment check will find and fix the cause before it ruins the tires.

Cupping — scalloped high-and-low wear around the tread — is usually caused by worn shocks or struts, other worn suspension parts, or an out-of-balance wheel. It often comes with vibration or a humming noise; we can diagnose it.

A steady TPMS light usually means a tire is low — check and adjust your pressures first. If it stays on or flashes, a sensor may have a dead battery or fault, or the system needs a relearn after service. We can diagnose and reset it.

If the tire is still holding air, drive gently straight to a shop to have it checked — don’t pull the nail out, since it may be sealing the hole. If the tire is going flat or the nail is in the sidewall, don’t drive on it; use your spare or call for help.

Mount and balance covers dismounting the old tire, mounting the new one on the wheel, computer-balancing the assembly, and a new valve stem — getting your new tires ready to install and ride smoothly.